t know where to begin, so I suppose I will begin at the beginning: This renovation project was started in 2006, beginning with chopping out the concrete in the keel cavity. The hull shell thickness was increased with mat/roving (vinylester) by a factor of 3 in the keel and tapered off into the turn of the bilge. Two transverse floors were added in the keel and then the grid structure was replaced including main bulkheads, all tabbed in with stitched fabmat. Lead pigs were arranged at the lower end of he keel cavity and surrounded with resin slurry. This was covered over with a heavily glassed in shelf, forming the battery box compartment (the original bilge sump remains aft of the battery compartment). The cabin sole (MDO ply) was epoxied in over the keel cavity, painted with Awlgrip/ non-skid and covered with a fitted piece of carpet. The inside of the hull/deck joint was overlaid with fiberglass. The hull below the waterline was ground to bare fiberglass and then faired and barrier-coated with Interlux 2000.
The top of the berths are made with MDO type plywood. The main bulkheads, chain locker bulkhead, and detail along each side of the companionway are covered with mahogany staving finished bright. The forward end of the main bulkheads and berth facings/sliding icebox are lined with white Formica. All trim is also mahogany. Also included is an insulated sliding icebox for under the companionway, and sliding shelf for the butane stove along the port side of the companionway.
The cabin overhead was faired with epoxy and painted with Awlgrip/flattening agent with a spray-applied additive, which provides some texture. Fiberglass panels were covered on one side with Formica, and the panels were epoxied to the inside of cabin trunks and trimmed in mahogany, incorporating a traditional "drip lip" below the portlights.
The interior cushions are professionally made. Over the years I also installed a manual toilet below the V-berth, holding tank with overboard pump-out, and new water tank with 12 V pump and shower wand in the cockpit.
The hull and decks were primed with Awlgrip 545 and (spray) painted with Awlcraft acrylic urethane (I did this type of work professionally many years ago). All exterior teak was replaced and white acrylic drop boards were also fabricated.
A gin pole was configured for mast raising (see photos) which I usually do in the water. I also built a removable mast gallows which mounts to brackets at the starboard quarter. These same brackets are also used to mount the boarding ladder when underway. The accordion type boarding ladder- which receives rave reviews- also can be moved over to the port hull side and extends well below the water for easy boarding. We also used the ladder in this configuration for dry-camping when on the road.
In 2011, I replaced the original "placeholder" batteries (grp 31 AGM) and I purchased a Torqueedo Cruise 2, which we used for three or four years (until the motor seals were compromised just after the warranty expired- but donít get me started on this!) The batteries allowed us to motor for 12 hours continuously (to 50% discharge) at 2.8 knots if needed. The motor that I put back on the boat after the Torqueedo is a Mercury 6-HP 4-stroke (2001 model) which seems to be generally bullet-proof and runs just fine. I did replace the outboard bracket last fall and also the water tube between the pump and power head.
The trailer is suitable for local transport and service/storage as it has no brakes. I also stripped it of the tongue stand, fenders, and lights, and simply mount the lights on the aft end and string the wiring to the hitch on the truck. I will deliver the boat on its trailer to a buyer in Florida, Georgia, or Alabama.
Some (more) words on the batteries/electrical system. The (8) grp 31 AGM batteries are made up into (2) 24VDC banks, with (6) in the keel compartment and (2) below the companionway (aft of the sliding icebox). The batteries are accessed through (2) gasketed access hatches in the cabin sole. The battery compartment is vented (per ABYC specs) well above the waterline (about to the level of the top of the galley counter) and all battery terminals are separately fused. The 24V banks are connected to a double-pole battery switch along the port side of the companionway. A Type T fuse adjacent to the switch is provided for the electric motor (with conductors routed back to the transom). The 24V bank has a separate charger and E-meter for monitoring. As of now the 2nd, aux battery bank does not hold a charge: I have not followed up on this as I have reverted back to the gas outboard and leave the battery switch at Battery 1. If we were to keep the boat I would just leave the batteries alone, as Bank 1 is still good - someone could still use a trolling motor off of the one bank if desired.
The 12V system is connected to a separate single grp 24 AGM battery, which is charged through a Newmar DC-DC converter from the 24V bank. 12V circuits are connected to a separate panelboard. All conductors throughout are boat cable and everything is done to current ABYC standards with respect to wiring size, overcurrent protection etc. The interior lights are LED.
I hauled the boat last fall and painted the boot top. I also installed the gold mylar sheer stripe (from Huckins) and purchased a new main (Precision Sails loose-footed). During the interim period I obtained another boat, and the Compac will have to go. I painted the bottom with antifouling a few weeks ago before relaunching.
Price is $10,500.00, delivered on its trailer to a buyer in Florida, Georgia, or Alabama.
I would be happy to send interested individuals a Dropbox link with detailed photos as well as construction photos.
Email Christopher at Millsy321@yahoo.com